The Angel, Abergavenny: hotel review
Abergavenny - a quiet but bustling market town located on the edge of the Bannau Brycheiniog (or Brecon Beacons National Park) - is best known for its annual food festival, which takes place during the second week of September.
It’s also not very far from where I grew up, so when the opportunity to spend a night at The Angel Hotel - a 31-bedroom establishment in the centre of Abergavenny - came up in January, my mum and I jumped at the chance.
A warm, Welsh welcome
Being reminded of how friendly Welsh people are is one of my favourite things about going home, and arriving at The Angel Hotel was no different. We were offered a wakeup call and asked if we would like a newspaper by the friendly receptionist, before we were shown to our room.
My mum and I shared a twin room which was located in the bunting-clad, cobbled mews. We felt relaxed as soon as we walked in: Radio 3 was playing in the background, a bottle of sparkling apple juice had been left out for us, along with some nibbles to keep us going before dinner. There was also a variety of tea and coffee to choose from, as well some delicious biscuits.
The room itself was classic and cosy, with dark wooden furniture, warm lamps and crisp white linen. The roomkey was also a real key (!!) instead of a card, which pleased my mum greatly.
Beautiful bwyd
After an afternoon spent walking up the Skirrid, one of a number of hills which surround Abergavenny - followed by a very relaxing pre-dinner bath - my mum and I were more than ready for dinner. We weren’t disappointed.
We dined in the Oak Room, which exudes elegance. It was busy for a Monday evening in January, and the deepness of the burgundy walls and wooden tables contrasted perfectly with the bright, abstract paintings to create a very nice atmosphere.
We were offered a selection of appetisers to start, featuring olives, prawn toasts and cheese twists, followed by a selection of bread with a beetroot and labneh dip. The tangy richness of labneh balanced out the earthiness of the beetroot perfectly, and the dip proved incredibly moreish .
With so many dishes to choose from, we opted for the prix fixe menu, which was very reasonably priced at £25 for a starter and main. My mum and I ordered differently, so we could try as much of the menu as possible . Simplicity is sometimes best, and this was certainly the case with our starter of garlic and rosemary roasted mushrooms on toasted brioche - a more exciting version of the mushrooms on toast I usually make myself. The crunchy sweetness of the brioche against the firm, fragrant mushrooms made for a very tasty starter.
Our other starter of ham hock terrine came deep-fried, almost like a croquette. It was served with a fried duck egg and bacon ketchup, which was smoky and salty in equal measure, and unlike anything I’d tried before.
For our main course, we opted for braised shin of beef, which was served with glazed carrots and colcannon mash (potatoes mashed with cabbage). It was rich and flavourful - the perfect, hearty dish for a winter’s evening.
The other main - pan-fried ray wing with sautéed potatoes, samphire and a caper and lemon dressing - was much lighter in comparison. It was just as tasty, albeit slightly too salty for me.
Although we were very full, we did find room for an affogato. The sweet, creaminess of the vanilla ice-cream cut through the bitterness of the espresso, and it was the perfect end to a very delicious meal. We then headed back to our room, where we read our books and drank chamomile tea.
After a good night’s sleep, we opted for the continental breakfast, featuring a bowl of creamy Welsh yoghurt, fruit and fresh croissants from the Angel Bakery across the road (owned by the same family as the hotel, it’s well worth a visit). Finished off with an oat flat white (you can take the girl out of London and all that), we were ready to play tourist.
Aber-venturing
Abergavenny sits on the outskirts of the Bannau Brycheiniog, making it the perfect base from which to explore the spectacular Welsh countryside..
There are numerous walks to choose from and hills to climb, most notably the Blorenge, the Sugar Loaf and Ysgyryd Fawr - aka the Skirrid - which is our favourite.
The weather was not on our side. The further we climbed, the cloudier and windier it became - at one point, we could hardly see our hands in front of our face, let alone the miles of rolling, green fields which surrounded us. The slippery walk down was gnarly at points, and we felt very accomplished when we made it back to the car.
I was determined to fit a cold-water dip into our trip, so on the way back to the hotel we stopped at Keepers Pond, located between Abergavenny and the UNESCO World Heritage site of Blaenavon.
While my mum chickened out, I got down to my swimming costume and waded in. It was some of the coldest water I’ve ever been in but, channelling my inner Wim Hof, I slowed my breathing and got my shoulders under. I didn’t stay in for long, but I felt so good for it.
If you’re looking for something a bit more relaxing during your stay in Abergavenny, the town has plenty of cafés, independent shops and a thriving market that sells everything from antiques to homemade cakes. You’ll also find The Walnut Tree Inn, a well-known Michelin-starred restaurant, a short drive away. While we didn’t make it there this time, it’s definitely on our bucket list.
And if, like me, you love to reconnect with nature on your getaways, The Angel Hotel’s monthly Wild Food Foraging weekends look like a great option. Under the expert guidance of Adele Nozedar, author of The Hedgerow Handbook, you get to discover wild plants, berries and fungi while spending even more time in the wonderful countryside. It’s a definite win-win!
Diolch yn fawr!
A bit of fresh air and some yummy food never go amiss, and after quite possibly the longest month of my life, getting into the countryside and spending some time with my mum was just what I needed.
Maggie was a guest of The Angel Hotel. She travelled to Newport from London via National Express (from £15.20).