Karapincha, Vauxhall Market, London: restaurant review
Since Karapincha opened its first grab-and-go stall five years ago, it has gone from strength to strength. Known for its homemade, locally sourced and affordable food, it is now regarded as one of London’s top spots for authentic Sri Lankan cuisine, with branches in Old Spitalfields Market, Vauxhall, Elephant and Castle’s Mercato Metropolitano and Canary Wharf. The latter site, which set up shop at the end of August, was the first restaurant in the UK to open within a tube station, with all the food prepared and cooked on-site.
The small London chain is the brainchild of twin sisters Vasanthini and Dharshini Perumal, who quit careers in finance to bring their soul food concept to life. One of the unique selling points of Karapincha is that everything - from the spice blends to the roti - is homemade, and cooked exactly as old Sri Lankan recipes dictate.
My sister and I visited Karapincha’s stall in Vauxhall Market Place, which is tucked under the bridge, just a short walk from the station. The market felt busy for a Wednesday, packed with people grabbing a post-work bite to eat. Long tables created a communal atmosphere and I enjoyed watching people tuck into all genres of food, from burgers and tacos to pizzas and curries. There was a very relaxed atmosphere which was mirrored in the understated decor of the market, although metal pipes and neon lights certainly added a touch of character.
We began with the Kothu Roti with chicken - a recommendation by the friendly man working the stall. The combination of chicken, roti, onions, chilli and pomegranate seeds was seriously tasty, with an intriguing texture thanks to the satisfying crunch of the pomegranate seeds and the tender meat. It was also the perfect level of spice for me, providing a kick which didn’t overpower the varied flavours. Priced at a reasonable £11, the dish felt like excellent value for money as it was quite filling and perfect for sharing between two.
Another star of the show was the lamb curry (£13), which was spicier than the Kothu Roti but balanced out by the pineapple pickle and the creamy sweetness of the coconut milk. Less exciting was the devilled chicken side (£8) which was fine but not particularly special. All the meat is halal and the menu also features several vegan options, including a vegan Kothu Roti, a vegan curry and vegan rolls.
My sister and I managed to wrap up our meal within just half an hour of our arrival at the market, a timing I considered pretty ideal for a mid-week dinner. Overall, I really enjoyed the dining experience at Vauxhall Market Place - and Karapincha has certainly piqued my interest in Sri Lankan food. I’ll definitely be back.
Maggie was a guest of Karapincha